Well, after moving to Pacific Beach, or PB as the locals call it, I have been able to surf at least three times a week. I have even gone before work which is amazing considering I work 12 hour shifts and drive about 30 minutes to and from work. So far, my spot has been … More I loved being wrong and this is why.
This post is going to be different. I will always surf as much as I am able, and yesterday was a learning experience. I love the ocean and surfing still, and always will. That being said…here it goes. I have a more informative side of what my experience was and a different side, consisting of … More The justice of the ocean
So why do people really surf? Well, I can’t answer for anyone but myself. This could be the longest post ever because there are so many reasons. The demand surfing puts on you for a healthy lifestyle, the laid back beach vibes, the salt water rinse, the chance to feel small, the sunshine, and oh … More Why even surf?
Thursday, July 21st of 2016 was a good surfing day. The waves were forecasted to be smaller and possibly boring, yet they were consistently 3-5′ as shown below. I would have brought my shortboard if I would have known I would have been able to catch so many lefts on the south end of Shorties. … More Loving Lefts
Yeah that title reminded me of the New Kids on the Block song but that’s not what I was going for. Anyway, though I love my RipCurl Dawn Patrol 5/3 wetsuit, and obviously I love my 9′ Robert August What I Ride board (because it’s my first, and they say you get your first for … More The right stuff (not the song)
So, because a picture is worth 1,000 words, let me just say this: Yeah on the way to the beach I thought to myself, it’s gonna be so cold! It was the day after Christmas after all. Anyway the water was 50 and the air was about 38 when I surfed. I kept the car … More Blissfully bonding w/boards
Today was my best surfing day ever…let me explain: So on my way to the coast, it was 27 degrees and I was driving slow to avoid sliding on ice…thinking to myself, if it’s this cold in the mountain passes, how cold will it be near the water?! I arrived to see the sun not … More FEELING Faces