I have been asked several times by friends what I eat/do in a day for nutrition and all. I realized rather than write it up every freaking time, I could write it once here, and just send a link. SO, here it is. Disclaimer: I have no formal training in diet or exercise. I was … More My Ultimate Nutrition Guide
Well, after moving to Pacific Beach, or PB as the locals call it, I have been able to surf at least three times a week. I have even gone before work which is amazing considering I work 12 hour shifts and drive about 30 minutes to and from work. So far, my spot has been … More I loved being wrong and this is why.
This post is going to be different. I will always surf as much as I am able, and yesterday was a learning experience. I love the ocean and surfing still, and always will. That being said…here it goes. I have a more informative side of what my experience was and a different side, consisting of … More The justice of the ocean
So why do people really surf? Well, I can’t answer for anyone but myself. This could be the longest post ever because there are so many reasons. The demand surfing puts on you for a healthy lifestyle, the laid back beach vibes, the salt water rinse, the chance to feel small, the sunshine, and oh … More Why even surf?
Thursday, July 21st of 2016 was a good surfing day. The waves were forecasted to be smaller and possibly boring, yet they were consistently 3-5′ as shown below. I would have brought my shortboard if I would have known I would have been able to catch so many lefts on the south end of Shorties. … More Loving Lefts
Yeah that title reminded me of the New Kids on the Block song but that’s not what I was going for. Anyway, though I love my RipCurl Dawn Patrol 5/3 wetsuit, and obviously I love my 9′ Robert August What I Ride board (because it’s my first, and they say you get your first for … More The right stuff (not the song)
So, because a picture is worth 1,000 words, let me just say this: Yeah on the way to the beach I thought to myself, it’s gonna be so cold! It was the day after Christmas after all. Anyway the water was 50 and the air was about 38 when I surfed. I kept the car … More Blissfully bonding w/boards
Today was my best surfing day ever…let me explain: So on my way to the coast, it was 27 degrees and I was driving slow to avoid sliding on ice…thinking to myself, if it’s this cold in the mountain passes, how cold will it be near the water?! I arrived to see the sun not … More FEELING Faces
So while I realize that November 11th, 2015 wasn’t the best day to surf, I had that day available to rent a shortboard so I did it. I drove out first thing and talked to my friends at Cleanline Surf. When I got there I had all intentions of renting a 6’8″ Superfish I’d had … More Shifting Sets at Shorties on a Shortboard
I didn’t make that up, but someone did. Why? Is it because since time began humans have been attracted to the ocean? Is it because when you surf, you get to exercise in a saline water cleanse, while releasing endorphins and getting fit? Or is it simply because once you’re in the lineup, you … More The sea calls-Come live in my heart and pay no rent
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